THE TURN

A moment in time when the lengths of things started to drop...

FINE

Another fine vehicle from a simpler, gentler era... I wish you could go down to the Chevy dealer and pick up one of these all spanking new with all wheel drive...

PERFECTION

Why can't they just make a new one of these that's all green and safe and shit?... I know I would not be the only one in line...

JMB

CUTE

BEAUTY

BUFFED

Two OG heroes looking good in their prime...

GIMME SHELTER

SUPER FLY

FLY

CHAMP

DK

LEATHER

HERBIE

Another great, squared off and committed bottom turn... This one is Herbie Fletcher in the early seventies...

CLASSIC

One fat, squared off bottom turn... It doesn't matter what era your from, you know this is all good... I think this is BK, or someone else doing an impersonation of the man... UPDATE, yes it is BK, and was shot in 1971 by the master, Jeff Divine...

SHADOWS

TOUCHE

A very interesting read should be had by all who are interested in the artistic dance we partake in, some compete in, but all have had their lives tweaked when we have fallen into the arms of her... One of surfings brightest lights has his own take on what it means to him, and it is a noble pursuit to know when the time is right to follow one's gut...

SURFBOARD SHOP OPENS

Tomorrow, Wednesday December 8th, my little hole in the wall opens for viewing surfboards... The hours will be Thursday, Friday and Saturday 2 to 6pm... Located in Montecito's lower village at 1187 Coast Village Road in the back of Richie's barbershop... Did a few simple pieces of gear you can check out on the S/DOUBLE site to go along with the boards... Stop by to size it up and talk story...

LOOKS MODERN

This old shot of Nat looks like the boards I have been shaping recently... Everything that is worthy seems to have more acts than their first...

RELUCTANT PROPHET

As time marches on, the work of this man seems more and more important... Thanks for being so engaged in the act of surfing...

SWEETSPOT

5'6" for skating on water...

CHOOSE YOUR WEAPON

LITTLE NUGGET

Here is a 5'7'/5'9" asymetric situation... Boards are coming in from the glassing world, stoked with the outcome... The S/Double surfboard shop opens soon in Montecito, come check out the roster...

THE MAN/PART 3

THE MAN/PART 2

THE MAN

BUTTAH

As smooth as it comes...

AND EVEN MORE CURVES

OHANA

Great north shore vibe of the family going to the beach for the day... The crew all hanging for the day, watching big brother giving Sunset a go... Boy, do I wish the highway still looked like this, and I love those dark, black clouds overhead...

AND MORE CURVES

Boards are starting to arrive back from the glass shop... The little nugget in front is a 6'0" fish and chip, hull to heavy double concaves out the tail, wide based twin fins with a good amount of splay... The one in the back is a single fin displacement hull in my salute to the genre, I am really stoked with the way these are coming out...

MORE CURVES

EARLY SUNDAY

The sun has not come up today yet, woke up really early and just had to come into studio to shape myself a new board... Was just laying there thinking of this board in my mind and had to get it out... Stringerless, low rocker, messed up plan shape, just what I had in mind... So stoked, I think I'm going to bust out a new quad also... Enjoy your sunday...

ASYM/ETHICAL

Really liking these things I am working on this week... A large nod to Mr. Eckstrom...

OG+PLANER

Some nuggets in germination... All kinds of different vibes are being explored... displacement hulls, classic twins, quad fish, mini-simmons kinda flavor through my lens, asymetrical situations and such, even a neo-mctavish deep vee single... I can't wait to water them up and see what grows... You reap what you sow...

"KNUB" #2

Here is a shot of the second "knub" to come straight out the studio...The concept is to bridge the gap from the finless world into the standard realm of surfboards... Branden has been riding "knub #1" when the surf is small and gutless, but surprisingly it is holding on longer than I expected when loaded up, eventually giving in to a controlled/uncontrolled slide when pushed... #2 is a 6'3" bigger guy size, compared to Branden"s 5'6"... Do not confuse this with the twin fin concept reported about on in the earlier post, two completely different gigs going down at the same time... I will have more ideas coming your way soon, as I just took 10 more to the glass shop yesterday... Cannot wait for more surf up here below the elbow of California...

SPEED AND FLOW

A local point has had a season starter of fun surf the last few days... This is officially the first surfing photo of a S/Double board being put through the paces... Branden Aroyan is on a 5'10" wing swallow twin fin I shaped as a prototype for the next generation of eighties inspired twins... This is not a fish of the Lis school, but a evolved version of the twins that got forgotten about when we went with the three fin thruster many moons ago... By all accounts homeboy was flying down the line with finesse and swagger... What stokes me the most is the clear sheet of water off his loaded up outside rail after the small adjustment up top, how the undisturbed water is completely clear and trips out the outline shape... Another thing I am proud of is he had written off twin fins in general as a desired board for himself, took it out on a whim, now I can't get it back... Big thanks to his buddy for taking this shot, it is a good season opener for me... Zen sessions in the shaping room are just the right thing at this particular moment, stoked to be in the game...