March 18, 2014

MAY 7th 1980

















Here is where my head was at on May 7/1980… Double bump swallow twin fin, fully sprayed and embellished with a graphic punch that seemed very fresh for the time… Equipment for the Modern Age seemed fitting at the time, and seems to still ring true today if you are not stuck in your past, sorting throughout your baggage that seems to build up as you go… Bust free of your own perimeters, grow and evolve… Do not be afraid of the new, most times it will not bite!

February 15, 2014

February 14, 2014

February 12, 2014

TRAVERS ADLER


Check out this one wave of Travers Adler by Tyler Emmett at Rincon… Travers is on his 5'4" Broken Noses model, named for the obvious break of the nose on it's first day go out… But, fixed up the thing is a keeper says the maestro of the flow…

I WANT, YOU GOT?




February 10, 2014

January 29, 2014

January 28, 2014

January 24, 2014

January 23, 2014

January 17, 2014

January 16, 2014

RIP / BRUCE JONES

















Sad news of the passing of a legitimate hall of fame shaper from the international board building community... Mr. Bruce Jones will be remembered by everyone as one of our most prolific shapers of his generation... I was hugely influenced by Bruce, he was the first shaper that I would watch through the back door of the Plastic Fantastic factory on the Third st. alley in Huntington in 1968 to light the fire of what shaping even was... I would peer through the 3 inch crack in the door, hear the whine of the planer and see the last foot of the board, then he would turn and head back the other way?... What was he doing?... I was intrigued, putting that visual together with the clumps of masking tape and hardened rail laps of glassing cut offs in the adjacent dumpster, sparking a life long interest in this craft that has served me (and Bruce) very well through the years... Bruce also got me my job at the Brotherhood when he left to start his own label in the old Ole shop in Sunset Beach, California in 1973... I was shaping for Ole at that time, leaving me jobless when he departed for Maui... Brucie recommended me to Russell as a young up and comer to fill his slot in the empty bay... I owe a large toast of gratitude to Bruce for being instrumental in me finding my path in this world, big shout to you my brother... My heart goes out to his family, and travel well my friend on the next part of your journey... Also, Bruce, along with Diff, in my opinion made the very best chambered balsa boards of all time...

January 13, 2014

January 9, 2014

December 19, 2013

December 18, 2013

December 12, 2013

December 6, 2013

November 26, 2013

November 25, 2013

HAPPY HAPPY


LOVE THIS



Came across this footage that I really like of Neal Purchase Jnr... As a goofy foot shaper myself with very limited surfing skills, I really get a kick out of this cats surfing, and from what I can gather, homeboy shapes some amazing boards... Enjoy this little clip and support your local shapers in their quest to further the artform of the foam... Go buy a board from this guy!... I do not know why the left side of the frame is cut off, but you can still get the flavor...

November 24, 2013

LATE SEVENTIES

























North Shore 1977-78 I think?...This is the year they filmed Big Wednesday, so someone can verify the facts... Flat deck downrailer, round diamond, single glass on with matching leash mound... Check how prehistoric the actual leash is, looks like black stretchy surgical rubber hose with a nylon rope up the middle?... This was my small board in the quiver, and looks nice and beef at the wide point... the Stussy beak had started to take shape on the nose around then, then really came into it's own on the twin fins that shortly followed this... 

November 22, 2013

MID-SEVENTIES

















These are the era boards I was talking about in the previous post... 7'4" to 8'6" pintail downrailers with glass on single fins, Stussy beak was finding it's voice right about now... Some with nose and tail blocks, double and triple touching pinlines, and tiny hand drawn stickers at the wide point... This was the zenith of the single fin performance surfing era, followed shortly by the twin fin... Remember, when MR was riding those first twins in Hawaii, he also had single fin boards from this school...  Also, Shaun riding that blue railed single in Spider Wills and Greg Weavers Backdoor tube riding footage... Anyway, thanks for letting me ramble about my lifelong passion... I still have these exact full length templates that I have held onto all these years in my shaping room...Maybe it's time to give this genre a new voice?...

November 21, 2013

ALLTIME













This speaks to me in such a profound way on what my vision of surfing is from the second I saw this photo when it came out, what 1974ish ?... So stoked to see the younger crew riding this kind equipment again... Saw an insta post of some Hawaii boards Joel Tudor had and there was a cool looking down railer round pin in there... These style and era boards are when I was at the height of my young man surf life, shaping full tilt at the Brotherhood, going to Kauai for the first time... Around this time I made a bunch of big, long pintails for the Russell boys... Lenny Foster, Paul Huessenstam (sp?) and assorted characters... They were some of the first boards to surf Puerto Escondido when it got found out... 

November 19, 2013

FUKUOKA COLLAGES

















These are big seven foot wide wall collages that I put together for the S/DOUBLE shop in Fukuoka, Japan...