October 17, 2011

AND MORE CURVES


Boards are starting to arrive back from the glass shop... The little nugget in front is a 6'0" fish and chip, hull to heavy double concaves out the tail, wide based twin fins with a good amount of splay... The one in the back is a single fin displacement hull in my salute to the genre, I am really stoked with the way these are coming out...

October 10, 2011

October 9, 2011

EARLY SUNDAY



The sun has not come up today yet, woke up really early and just had to come into studio to shape myself a new board... Was just laying there thinking of this board in my mind and had to get it out... Stringerless, low rocker, messed up plan shape, just what I had in mind... So stoked, I think I'm going to bust out a new quad also... Enjoy your sunday...

October 8, 2011

ASYM/ETHICAL


Really liking these things I am working on this week... A large nod to Mr. Eckstrom...

OG+PLANER



Some nuggets in germination... All kinds of different vibes are being explored... displacement hulls, classic twins, quad fish, mini-simmons kinda flavor through my lens, asymetrical situations and such, even a neo-mctavish deep vee single... I can't wait to water them up and see what grows... You reap what you sow...

October 6, 2011

"KNUB" #2


Here is a shot of the second "knub" to come straight out the studio...The concept is to bridge the gap from the finless world into the standard realm of surfboards... Branden has been riding "knub #1" when the surf is small and gutless, but surprisingly it is holding on longer than I expected when loaded up, eventually giving in to a controlled/uncontrolled slide when pushed... #2 is a 6'3" bigger guy size, compared to Branden"s 5'6"... Do not confuse this with the twin fin concept reported about on in the earlier post, two completely different gigs going down at the same time... I will have more ideas coming your way soon, as I just took 10 more to the glass shop yesterday... Cannot wait for more surf up here below the elbow of California...

September 30, 2011

SPEED AND FLOW


A local point has had a season starter of fun surf the last few days... This is officially the first surfing photo of a S/Double board being put through the paces... Branden Aroyan is on a 5'10" wing swallow twin fin I shaped as a prototype for the next generation of eighties inspired twins... This is not a fish of the Lis school, but a evolved version of the twins that got forgotten about when we went with the three fin thruster many moons ago... By all accounts homeboy was flying down the line with finesse and swagger... What stokes me the most is the clear sheet of water off his loaded up outside rail after the small adjustment up top, how the undisturbed water is completely clear and trips out the outline shape... Another thing I am proud of is he had written off twin fins in general as a desired board for himself, took it out on a whim, now I can't get it back... Big thanks to his buddy for taking this shot, it is a good season opener for me... Zen sessions in the shaping room are just the right thing at this particular moment, stoked to be in the game...

August 29, 2011

BARITONE


My son is really getting his chops down on baritone sax lately... It is letting me turn him on to my favorite player on that instrument, Mr. Gerry Mulligan... The albums he made with Chet Baker are all time classics... Check out the swagger for a skinny white kid holding his own... Revisit, or visit it for the first time, this music that has been a staple for me for my whole adventure...
ps... I have never seen anyone wear Clark desert boots better than this!... He could be in the Specials...


August 25, 2011

August 23, 2011

RUSS/RIP


Bummer news on the passing of Mr. Robert Russell Brown... This guy is one of a kind, has been making boards as long as anybody, is as unique of dude as you will ever come across... Russell passed on this past weekend, my heart is with him on this next part of his journey... Above is a picture I have always cherished from my days working at the Brotherhood factory in Huntington Beach (73'-79') shaping boards for Russell as I came of age... The rig is the old delivery truck that Russ drove back and forth to Newport, taking boards to the Russell shop down by the Crab Cooker... The expression he has in the photo is how I will always remember him... Travel well my bruthah...

August 17, 2011

STYLE


Love this old Citroen poster, timeless graphics...

HF



I have been revisiting old tapes that I have kept around since the late eighties forward... These two nuggets were in the flow of sounds that Hiroshi would send me in those years... These are most likely 1990-92 vintage?... Still sound very cool, and I sure hope this address is very old and outdated...

August 16, 2011

WAY BACK


How many of you cats can tell me what this is?... Found it while going through archives of favorite things... If you know, you know...

August 15, 2011

CUTBACK




Wide nose cutbacks are things I am really feeling lately...

July 19, 2011

SEALIFE



Many things live in the sea...

July 16, 2011

July 12, 2011

ALAKA'I SWAMP


Went on an insane hike up to the edge of the world, past Koke'e into the swamp gets you to this spot... Then the gamble is getting it with the sun out, as it is usually full blown guerillas in the mist type of situation... Hanalei bay and Kilauea sit in the distance... You know that what you capture on film is not even close to how it looks in person...

July 5, 2011

COUNTRY


You can deal with this, or you can deal with that...

June 30, 2011

June 27, 2011

HARD TO BEAT


Time slows down on Kauai, hard to beat the pace of the country... Like the Paula Fuga song says, "country side always mo' bettah than town"...

June 21, 2011

REMIX



Here are some shots of another prototype I have been working on... A mash up exercise in two valid schools that I feel have certain limitations in their original state... Remixing the Liddle egg school with a feel from the Simmons vibe is my point of view... The neutral rocker and slim foil will fit in perfectly around long points this fall... 6'8"x 22" for D.B...

June 16, 2011

WOW


June 14, 2011

MAN and MACHINE


When in New York last week I hooked up with Michael Halsband. He shot a portrait of my ugly mug using a vintage 8x10 polaroid camera for his current project... I really enjoyed myself at his studio where he did this amazing tea prep situation that was more of a ritual... I wonder how the photo will turn out...

June 13, 2011

WORKING


A young, hard working band early in their adventure... I am feeling the sweaters...

June 12, 2011

BEACHCRUISER


Another cool version of the mash up of bicycle and motorcycle...

June 8, 2011

SUMMER


Summer is close, get wet...

June 6, 2011

PROTOTYPE





Here is a new little 5'6" hybrid kinda deal that I have been working on...

BEACH TOWN


Got back home to the beach where flagstone and sand replaced the concrete of the trip, but still a fresh pair of Vans does the job...

June 5, 2011

MEAN STREETS


Another self portrait of a fresh pair getting worked in on the steamy streets of the city...

June 4, 2011

T/ADLER


Spent some time with Mr. Adler in New York city this week... Cruised around the city and talked story about favorite book stores and stuff...

June 3, 2011

TWIN FINS



The "Hottest Hundred Yards" gig in NYC got off to a great start with a fun gathering the other night... A solid turn out of interesting people came out on one hot, sweltering night to stroll this small moment in time of our surf culture... Randy, Charles and the quik crew get a big thanks for including me... Check it out if your in the city...