One fat, squared off bottom turn... It doesn't matter what era your from, you know this is all good... I think this is BK, or someone else doing an impersonation of the man... UPDATE, yes it is BK, and was shot in 1971 by the master, Jeff Divine...
December 29, 2011
December 28, 2011
December 26, 2011
TOUCHE
A very interesting read should be had by all who are interested in the artistic dance we partake in, some compete in, but all have had their lives tweaked when we have fallen into the arms of her... One of surfings brightest lights has his own take on what it means to him, and it is a noble pursuit to know when the time is right to follow one's gut...
December 7, 2011
SURFBOARD SHOP OPENS
Tomorrow, Wednesday December 8th, my little hole in the wall opens for viewing surfboards... The hours will be Thursday, Friday and Saturday 2 to 6pm... Located in Montecito's lower village at 1187 Coast Village Road in the back of Richie's barbershop... Did a few simple pieces of gear you can check out on the S/DOUBLE site to go along with the boards... Stop by to size it up and talk story...
December 3, 2011
LOOKS MODERN
This old shot of Nat looks like the boards I have been shaping recently... Everything that is worthy seems to have more acts than their first...
December 2, 2011
RELUCTANT PROPHET
As time marches on, the work of this man seems more and more important... Thanks for being so engaged in the act of surfing...
November 26, 2011
November 12, 2011
November 9, 2011
LITTLE NUGGET
Here is a 5'7'/5'9" asymetric situation... Boards are coming in from the glassing world, stoked with the outcome... The S/Double surfboard shop opens soon in Montecito, come check out the roster...
October 31, 2011
October 27, 2011
October 25, 2011
OHANA
Great north shore vibe of the family going to the beach for the day... The crew all hanging for the day, watching big brother giving Sunset a go... Boy, do I wish the highway still looked like this, and I love those dark, black clouds overhead...
October 17, 2011
AND MORE CURVES
Boards are starting to arrive back from the glass shop... The little nugget in front is a 6'0" fish and chip, hull to heavy double concaves out the tail, wide based twin fins with a good amount of splay... The one in the back is a single fin displacement hull in my salute to the genre, I am really stoked with the way these are coming out...
October 10, 2011
October 9, 2011
EARLY SUNDAY
The sun has not come up today yet, woke up really early and just had to come into studio to shape myself a new board... Was just laying there thinking of this board in my mind and had to get it out... Stringerless, low rocker, messed up plan shape, just what I had in mind... So stoked, I think I'm going to bust out a new quad also... Enjoy your sunday...
October 8, 2011
OG+PLANER
Some nuggets in germination... All kinds of different vibes are being explored... displacement hulls, classic twins, quad fish, mini-simmons kinda flavor through my lens, asymetrical situations and such, even a neo-mctavish deep vee single... I can't wait to water them up and see what grows... You reap what you sow...
October 6, 2011
"KNUB" #2
Here is a shot of the second "knub" to come straight out the studio...The concept is to bridge the gap from the finless world into the standard realm of surfboards... Branden has been riding "knub #1" when the surf is small and gutless, but surprisingly it is holding on longer than I expected when loaded up, eventually giving in to a controlled/uncontrolled slide when pushed... #2 is a 6'3" bigger guy size, compared to Branden"s 5'6"... Do not confuse this with the twin fin concept reported about on in the earlier post, two completely different gigs going down at the same time... I will have more ideas coming your way soon, as I just took 10 more to the glass shop yesterday... Cannot wait for more surf up here below the elbow of California...
September 30, 2011
SPEED AND FLOW
A local point has had a season starter of fun surf the last few days... This is officially the first surfing photo of a S/Double board being put through the paces... Branden Aroyan is on a 5'10" wing swallow twin fin I shaped as a prototype for the next generation of eighties inspired twins... This is not a fish of the Lis school, but a evolved version of the twins that got forgotten about when we went with the three fin thruster many moons ago... By all accounts homeboy was flying down the line with finesse and swagger... What stokes me the most is the clear sheet of water off his loaded up outside rail after the small adjustment up top, how the undisturbed water is completely clear and trips out the outline shape... Another thing I am proud of is he had written off twin fins in general as a desired board for himself, took it out on a whim, now I can't get it back... Big thanks to his buddy for taking this shot, it is a good season opener for me... Zen sessions in the shaping room are just the right thing at this particular moment, stoked to be in the game...
August 29, 2011
BARITONE
My son is really getting his chops down on baritone sax lately... It is letting me turn him on to my favorite player on that instrument, Mr. Gerry Mulligan... The albums he made with Chet Baker are all time classics... Check out the swagger for a skinny white kid holding his own... Revisit, or visit it for the first time, this music that has been a staple for me for my whole adventure...
ps... I have never seen anyone wear Clark desert boots better than this!... He could be in the Specials...
August 25, 2011
August 23, 2011
RUSS/RIP
Bummer news on the passing of Mr. Robert Russell Brown... This guy is one of a kind, has been making boards as long as anybody, is as unique of dude as you will ever come across... Russell passed on this past weekend, my heart is with him on this next part of his journey... Above is a picture I have always cherished from my days working at the Brotherhood factory in Huntington Beach (73'-79') shaping boards for Russell as I came of age... The rig is the old delivery truck that Russ drove back and forth to Newport, taking boards to the Russell shop down by the Crab Cooker... The expression he has in the photo is how I will always remember him... Travel well my bruthah...
August 17, 2011
HF
I have been revisiting old tapes that I have kept around since the late eighties forward... These two nuggets were in the flow of sounds that Hiroshi would send me in those years... These are most likely 1990-92 vintage?... Still sound very cool, and I sure hope this address is very old and outdated...
August 16, 2011
WAY BACK
How many of you cats can tell me what this is?... Found it while going through archives of favorite things... If you know, you know...
August 15, 2011
July 19, 2011
July 16, 2011
July 12, 2011
ALAKA'I SWAMP
Went on an insane hike up to the edge of the world, past Koke'e into the swamp gets you to this spot... Then the gamble is getting it with the sun out, as it is usually full blown guerillas in the mist type of situation... Hanalei bay and Kilauea sit in the distance... You know that what you capture on film is not even close to how it looks in person...
July 5, 2011
June 30, 2011
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