November 26, 2013

November 25, 2013

LOVE THIS



Came across this footage that I really like of Neal Purchase Jnr... As a goofy foot shaper myself with very limited surfing skills, I really get a kick out of this cats surfing, and from what I can gather, homeboy shapes some amazing boards... Enjoy this little clip and support your local shapers in their quest to further the artform of the foam... Go buy a board from this guy!... I do not know why the left side of the frame is cut off, but you can still get the flavor...

November 24, 2013

LATE SEVENTIES

























North Shore 1977-78 I think?...This is the year they filmed Big Wednesday, so someone can verify the facts... Flat deck downrailer, round diamond, single glass on with matching leash mound... Check how prehistoric the actual leash is, looks like black stretchy surgical rubber hose with a nylon rope up the middle?... This was my small board in the quiver, and looks nice and beef at the wide point... the Stussy beak had started to take shape on the nose around then, then really came into it's own on the twin fins that shortly followed this... 

November 22, 2013

MID-SEVENTIES

















These are the era boards I was talking about in the previous post... 7'4" to 8'6" pintail downrailers with glass on single fins, Stussy beak was finding it's voice right about now... Some with nose and tail blocks, double and triple touching pinlines, and tiny hand drawn stickers at the wide point... This was the zenith of the single fin performance surfing era, followed shortly by the twin fin... Remember, when MR was riding those first twins in Hawaii, he also had single fin boards from this school...  Also, Shaun riding that blue railed single in Spider Wills and Greg Weavers Backdoor tube riding footage... Anyway, thanks for letting me ramble about my lifelong passion... I still have these exact full length templates that I have held onto all these years in my shaping room...Maybe it's time to give this genre a new voice?...

November 21, 2013

ALLTIME













This speaks to me in such a profound way on what my vision of surfing is from the second I saw this photo when it came out, what 1974ish ?... So stoked to see the younger crew riding this kind equipment again... Saw an insta post of some Hawaii boards Joel Tudor had and there was a cool looking down railer round pin in there... These style and era boards are when I was at the height of my young man surf life, shaping full tilt at the Brotherhood, going to Kauai for the first time... Around this time I made a bunch of big, long pintails for the Russell boys... Lenny Foster, Paul Huessenstam (sp?) and assorted characters... They were some of the first boards to surf Puerto Escondido when it got found out... 

November 19, 2013

FUKUOKA COLLAGES

















These are big seven foot wide wall collages that I put together for the S/DOUBLE shop in Fukuoka, Japan...

November 18, 2013

November 16, 2013

November 15, 2013

November 14, 2013

November 13, 2013

November 11, 2013

November 9, 2013

25 YEARS AGO

Blows my mind that this still looks semi-fresh all these years later... 1988 was a great time for me when music was a wild frontier on the hip hop tip, clothes had not turned into costumes yet, you had to go out and find your kit, not delivered to your doorstep like nowdays... And NO WAY would you have gone and stood in line for it... These cats are still in the game, OG's all the way around... Funny how the scene has not really changed, and the visual is still pretty much what you see here from the olden days...

November 7, 2013

November 4, 2013

November 2, 2013

November 1, 2013